Poli'hale is on the West side of Kauai. This beach is probably ten miles long, all sand, dunes, and the Pacific Ocean. The last strands of sand end where the Na'pali (cliffs) begin to rise hundreds of feet into the sky rendering a round-the-island car ride impossible. On some weekends it has a lonely, end-of-the-world, feel. Not so on the 4th of July!
We arrived Thursday evening just before sunset. A pacific sunset often includes a bank of soft clouds, ringing the horizon like a protective net softening the fall of the sun into the ocean. The sun's descent fires the clouds with an orange glow marking our downed star. On this night, once the sunset's glow faded into a black blanket laced with star light, we saw the sharp crescent of the new moon just above the horizon following the sun into the void. Then, we turned down our lanterns, stood on the dunes with a soft breeze cooling our skin and gazed into the night at a million, million suns, and a million, million galaxies. I wonder about all those people who question whether there is any life up there. I can't see it, but I know they are there...millions of worlds enjoying their own sunsets and watching our star winkle at them.
The next morning I attacked the Sun Shade! This is a blue, spring bar design purchased at Kirkham's many years ago. No floor, open sides at the end and I couldn't remember how to put it up! To many springs and bars that didn't spring! After several collapses I am beginning to feel a bit self-consicous with Sarah and our friends laughing at me on the knoll (seriously, I know they were cheering for me!). Nonetheless, I soon remembered the technique and sprung a shade to shield the shinning sun. Yeah!
The location, however, proved to be a bit of a problem.
With my shade standing ever ready, we swam in the ocean, threw the feezbee, played a family game of football (Sarah threw two straight touchdown passes!), rescued two stranded "quads" (you know, the four wheel motorcycles) and soon found ourselves standing just beyond the reach of the waves with the sun beginning its drop back into the clouds. As this happens, there is an undefineable point when one no longer feels the strength of the sun ray. It is as if the sun gathers all of its strength within itself preparing for the night to come. A visitor, as we were, is left with a feeling of perfect temperature and only the soft caress of a breeze slipping down from the rock walls at our back. The thickness of the atmosphere allows our eyes to look easily in the direction of the sun. We sit, visit, share stories, and watch the sun mark the end of a wonderful day.
And then the night!. You see, in my focus to raise the sun shade, I placed the two open ends parallel with the beach and close to the dune where we parked our cars. A few vehicles drove on the beach near our sun shade during the day. Certainly, they would stop after midnight or so. But no...not tonight! And, with each passing vehicle, I realize there is an unmarked freeway with traffic moving on both sides of our sun shade! A large party a mile or so to the north enticed a steady stream of quads, trucks, and other 4x4s gunning their engines through the sand first to the party, and then back to check their fishing lines, back to the party, and then back for a beer, and then back to the party....all.....night.....long. Oh no...this is not all...the party includes very loud music (at least that is what they called it) that blares long into the night leaving my mind a jumble of thoughts pushing sleep far from me.
As you may have guessed, and as is very common, we slept under and around the sun shade. Kaylee and her friend in the open and Sarah and I under the sun shade. As each truck's lights blazed through our little open bedroom, I was startled from whatever thoughts of sleep I had, and worried the trucks wouldn't see us. Sometime during the night, however, I learned something very important. You see...Sarah was still asleep and, not only asleep, but she slept through the night and did not hear the music or see the lights or hear the engines! Now...and I write this for her brothers and sisters and all who have every dared to wake Sarah...how is this possible!
I will end this post, leaving for another time, a description of our trek home, the thorns in the bushes, the local Hawaiians at the watering hole, the call to the police and our game of scrabble; but, please somebody help explain how Sarah slept through the night on the beach at Poli'hale!